Trebižat River: Hide and Seek Oasis

Imagine a river so playful it goes underground, pops up somewhere else, and changes its name nearly every time it resurfaces. Meet the Trebižat. From rugged karst hills west of Mostar, it vanishes and reappears nine times before rolling past Čapljina to greet the Neretva. Each rebirth gives locals a fresh name, so the same water is called Tihaljina, Mlade, Matica, Suvaja, and finally Trebižat. No wonder Herzegovinians say this river has more passports than a touring rock band.

When the Trebižat shows its face, the water is emerald clear. Travertine in the riverbed acts like a filter, so pools shimmer electric green even on cloudy days. Shady willow tunnels arch over slow bends near Čapljina. Kingfishers flash blue along the banks, and minnows hold in gentle current just below the surface. Depending on the section, the river is a lazy inner tube highway or a shallow rapid, perfect for kayak selfies.

• April–May. Water is brisk but crystal, ideal for first canoe trips before summer crowds. Wild irises bloom on the banks.
• June–August. Peak swimming season. Locals gather at river beaches like Božjak, Čeveljuša, and the pool beneath Kravice Falls. Kids invent splash contests, and watermelons chill in mesh bags tied to tree roots.
• September. Temperature softens, fig trees heavy with fruit lean over the water, and sunset paddles feel like a private cinema.
• October. Migrating herons and ducks pause on sandbars, perfect for quiet photography.

Canoe Safari

Guides start trips just outside Čapljina. The current is mild, so even first timers paddle easily. The route slips under willow canopies, past cobblestone bridges, and into Hutovo Blato Nature Park, where reeds sway and moorhens chatter. Three hours downstream, guides meet the group with a van and homemade rakija for a river toast.

River Beaches

Ask any Čapljina local their favorite swimming hole and arguments start. Božjak offers deep jade water under drooping fig branches. Čeveljuša near Ljubuški has a small waterfall that feels like a natural spa shower. On scorching days, crowds head to Jaz, the town beach, bringing portable grills and crates of beer dunked in the shallows for cooling.

Kravice Falls

Where the Trebižat jumps from a semicircle of tufa cliffs, it forms Herzegovina's most famous swimming pool. Rope swings hang from overhanging branches. Limestone shelves make handy seats under the falls. Arrive before ten or after four to dodge tour buses, then float on your back and count rainbows in the spray.

After a swim, hunger strikes hard. Farmers' stalls by the road sell peaches, cherries, and jars of honey. Grills near the beaches serve ćevapi, trout, and flatbread still steaming from the fire. For dessert, buy a paper cone of roasted almonds or break open a pomegranate picked five minutes earlier from a nearby orchard.

• Footwear. Rocks can be sharp. Water shoes save tender soles.
• Cash. River kiosks often skip card machines.
• Sun protection. The river surface magnifies sunlight. Hat, sunscreen, repeat.
• Respect the flow. Current is gentle, but avoid diving in unknown spots.
• Leave no trace. Carry out every plastic bottle and snack wrapper.

From Sommerhagene Resort, the river is minutes away. Breakfast under olive trees, then head to the launch. Spend a half day paddling, swimming, or picnicking, and still be back for a sunset glass of Žilavka. Trebižat turns a simple itinerary into a two-landscape day: a hilltop villa in the morning, a cool green river by noon.

It hides, it resurfaces, it surprises, and it never stops giving reasons to smile. One afternoon, dog paddling beneath fig leaves, you will understand why locals boast about their river with nine names. Pack a towel and let the Trebižat show you how Herzegovina does summer, spring, and every season in between. Once you float in its clear water, you may never look at an ordinary river the same way again.