Počitelj: Sunset in Stone

Perched above the emerald Neretva, Počitelj looks like someone pressed pause on the 16th century. Stone houses cling to the hillside, a tall clock tower keeps silent watch, and a crescent of fortress walls climbs toward the sky. From Čapljina, the drive is ten minutes; from the first cobblestone step you feel centuries peel back.

Start at the lower gate and wind upward through archways draped in bougainvillea. Smooth flagstones guide you past tiny art studios where painters capture the same view you are photographing. The 17th-century Hadži-Alija Mosque rises on the left, its slender minaret pointing a confident finger at the blue. Keep climbing. Fig trees lean over walls offering free snacks in late summer; pomegranates split open in autumn sun. Cats nap on lintels that once held Ottoman tax records.

At the top the fortress, rewards every calf muscle. King Tvrtko I began building these walls in 1383; Ottomans, Venetians, and Habsburgs all took turns patching and smashing them. Stand on the rampart and the river shimmers far below, green fields quilt the valley, and limestone ridges roll to the horizon. Late afternoon light turns tower stones honey gold—photographers call it Počitelj hour.

Back in the lower bazaar, women sell jars of smoky eggplant ajvar, hand-embroidered tablecloths, and fresh fig jam so thick it clings to the spoon. Pick up a paper cone of roasted almonds and chat with vendors; many speak just enough English to swap smiles and prices. Coffee comes in copper džezvas, its aroma drifting through sandstone arches. Take a seat, sip slowly, and let the call to prayer echo from the minaret while swallows loop overhead.

• Footwear – Cobblestones get slick; trainers beat sandals.
• Timing – Arrive after four for softer light and cooler stone.
• Tickets – Fortress entry costs pocket change; cash only.
• Parking – Small lot at the lower gate fills fast. Roadside spots on the main highway work in a pinch.

Počitelj compresses medieval walls, Ottoman grace, and painterly vistas into a village you can cross in twenty minutes yet remember for years. Climb, linger, photograph, taste, and watch the sun set molten orange behind the clock tower. When darkness draws the first stars, you will understand why travellers keep writing new love letters to this old stone jewel.