Pedalling History: The Ćiro Rail‑Trail from Čapljina to the Coast

Start your ride in Čapljina and follow the Ciro gravel path south, about 40 km through Herzegovina's karst heart. This is the former Austro‑Hungarian narrow‑gauge railway built between 1898 and 1901, now signed for cyclists. Abandoned stone stations, vine‑covered fields and Ottoman bridges line the route. From Sommerhagene you can be on the trail in minutes, making this an ideal day tour that ends near the Dubrovnik hinterland.

The rail‑trail slips through vineyards, limestone gorges and small villages where donkey carts still outnumber cars. South of Gabela the track hugs the Neretva floodplain, then climbs gentle terraces that overlook citrus groves. Ten hand‑cut tunnels (bring a light) and an iron bridge designed by Eiffel's firm break up the ride with cool shade and echoing acoustics. Everywhere the air smells of wild sage, and each bend opens a new postcard of green river and grey rock.

Derelict stops like Jasenica and Gabela still show faded platform letters. Information boards explain how steam locomotives once hauled timber, wine and salt to the coast. Near Ravno an Ottoman customs house and a crumbling Austrian watchtower remind riders that this was once a tense frontier. History feels close enough to touch: stone arches, bullet scars, railway mileposts frozen at zero.

• Bike: Bring a gravel bike or mountain bike. Thin road tyres struggle on loose ballast.
• Water and food: There are no shops between Čapljina and Ravno. Pack at least two litres and snacks.
• Best season: March to June and September to November. Summer rides are doable but hot.
• Photo stops: Roman villa Mogorjelo at kilometre 5, Eiffel bridge around kilometre 15, station Ravno hotel‑café near kilometre 30.
• Return options: Arrange a lift back, or pedal the same trail north with afternoon tailwind.

The Ciro Trail is history you can feel through your pedals. Smooth grades let you look around instead of down, and every tunnel delivers a blast of cool air that smells like damp stone and pine. By late afternoon you roll into coastal hills where the scent changes to sea salt. After a swim or seafood lunch, load the bikes onto a van and return to Sommerhagene in time for sunset. In one easy day you connect riverside resort, mountain gorge and Adriatic edge, all on the rails of a forgotten empire.